Bombay is a delicious city, full of hidden gems, lovely histories, the most delicious comfort food and countless stories. It has always been our deepest well of inspiration at Dishoom, influencing everything from our design and founding myths to our events, and most importantly, our food and drink.
For us, one of the loveliest things about Bombay is that no matter how many times you visit, it remains a city in motion – a melting pot where cultures, histories and traditions continually mingle and evolve. Every return brings fresh ideas and new influences. Yet, amidst all the newness, Bombay's deep connection to its past holds us close. Even in an ever-changing city, you can always retreat for familiar tastes of comfort. The warmth of Irani cafés with their plump pau and spicy Akuri, the satisfying fire of a street-side Vada Pau, the snackery of Bhel and the inevitable steaming glass of chai.
Bombay has long been the subject of massive inward migration from both land and sea: the child of a Portuguese-British wedding, and later, a ‘land of opportunity’ drawing in waves of people with the promise of enterprise and wealth. Over the years, each new person that stepped foot into Bombay brought with them a little piece of culinary heritage – Portuguese, Parsi, Mughlai, Goan and many others.
Over time, these different cultures, histories, tastes and stories converged, speaking loudly-proudly together, companionably jostling for space. Gradually, they were absorbed into the belly of the city – until they became the nature of Bombay food itself.
Read on for a brief exploration into the rich, delicious history of Bombay’s cuisine.
➻ Portuguese Pau
Let’s start with pau. A plump, buttery bread and street food staple synonymous with Bombay. Yet pau – both by name and by recipe – is derived from the Portuguese settlers’ pão, who clambered ashore in the sixteenth century when the city was little more than a clutch of seven islands. Having landed in an area where the locals ate rice, the Portuguese missed their bread and fashioned a roll from the Indian locality.
Now, if we think of Pau Bhaji, Vada Pau, Keema Pau – no food is more Bombay.
Above New Keema Pau
➻ Parsi cuisine and the Irani cafés
Another significant influence on Bombay’s cuisine comes from the Parsi community, an ancient group with roots in Iran. They themselves were succeeded by the “Iranis”, a second wave of migration to bring cherished traditions and proud ambitions. It is they who opened up the Irani cafés in the late 19th century, serving Parsi specialities to swathes of hungry Bombayites. Nourishing the bellies and souls of the city.
There is no simpler joy than a morning chai and plate of Akuri at Kyani & Co. First opened in 1904, Farokh-bhai is now the third generation of his family to rattle the shutters at dawn. At Dishoom, we serve three eggs, spiced, scrambled and piled up richly alongside toasted pau – scrambling Parsi-Portuguese heritage into a simple delicious breakfast.
Britannia & Co. is another utterly charming Irani café, opened by Boman Kohinoor – a man of legendary kindness. Parsi favourites of fragrant Salli Boti and Chicken Berry Pulao are loved by locals across communities and cultures. The pulao is a recipe created by Mr Kohinoor’s wife when the family returned from Iran (it is presumed that she packed the barberries required in the recipe in her bag!).
Above Mr Kohinoor at Britannia & Co.
➻ Northern India and the Mughal Empire
The influence of northern Indian flavours makes the mouth drip with delight. Rooted in the lavish kitchens of the Mughal Empire, these dishes reflect the richness and opulence of the dynasty’s culinary legacy. Creamy butter, fresh paneer, gloriously nutty curries. The extensive use of saffron, cardamom and aromatic spices. With a penchant for meat, from prime cuts to brain and guts, no part of the animal was overlooked!
While the Empire eventually fell, the Mughlai taste for opulence survived and largely framed the food of Punjab and Lucknow. As the region’s inhabitants migrated south to Bombay, the butter and bounty that they brought melted into the city.
Aside from Bademiya – first opened by a 17-year-old immigrant, Mohammed Yaseen – perhaps there’s no better place to savour Mughlai cuisine than at Mohammed Ali Road. Shammi kababs, Sheekh kababs, Galawati kababs. Shallow-fried bheja rolls of spiced lamb brain are creamy, crispy, buttery all at once. Meanwhile, Nalli Nihari is being lovingly prepared with bone marrow and gently reclining into a deeply flavoursome gravy. Rara Gosht, Daal Gosht, fragrant Biryanis – the tastes and smells are quite intoxicating! Mohammed Ali Road is a Bombay institution, steeped in the culinary riches of the Mughlai Empire.
➻ Goa
The final piece today is Goa (and it must be noted that this list is not exhaustive). A land of seafood, coconut, tamarind, tangy toddy vinegar, kokum and aromatic curry leaves. Where fragrant sauces bring a bright freshness to the palate; where the sublime balance of sweet and sharp prevails.
Goan flavours may not be what you immediately associate with Bombay: there’s a feistiness that stands apart from anything else we’ve tasted in the city (and we’ve tried a lot!). New Martins Hotel and Gable’s in Colaba are two of our favourite restaurants serving mouth-watering Goan fare. Stephen Fernandes – the second-generation owner of Gable’s – carried on the tradition from his father, and now, his son Joel wears many hats – chef, manager, cashier! Dive into a magnificent spread of Fish Recheado, Chicken Xacuti, Vindaloo and of course, the Goan Fish Curry, being carried enthusiastically from the kitchen.
From Portuguese pau to Parsi specialities, the savoury richness of Mughlai dishes to coconut-sweet Goan curries, these are all pieces that make up the food of Bombay. The picture is vast, dear patron! Today, we simply skim the surface.
And while Bombay as a city has absorbed these different tastes, we try to do the same inside every Dishoom café. We love serving you dishes cooked in Parsi, Muslim, Hindu and Christian traditions. We do this intentionally, self-consciously. And above all, we do this to share our love of Bombay.
The story continues
