interview

Ramadan with Chef Naved

As part of our Rooted in Ritual series, we sit down with OG Dishoom-walla, Chef Naved Nasir. He shares the feast-filled Ramadans of his childhood and reflects on a ‘superpower’ that he gains from fasting.

In this series, we ask beloved friends to reflect on their culture’s festivals, from the raucous celebrations and quiet prayers to the cherished memories and family traditions. Chef Naved is part of our family. Our original Executive Chef, he helped us open our very first café back in 2010, and for the next 15 years, he filled our patrons’ bellies with platefuls of Bombay delectation.

These days, he has his own restaurant in Dubai – the thriving Khadak, named after a street food haven in Bombay’s busy Bhendi Bazaar. Here, Chef Naved talks about his favourite Ramadan dishes, who’s getting his last iftar samosa, and why being a chef is the toughest way to fast.

OG Dishoom-walla, Chef Naved

What does Ramadan mean to you, and how has this changed over time?

For me, it has always been a time of family coming together. I grew up in a joint family, with several generations living together, and the whole month was so exciting for us kids. People took holidays, came home, and we all dined together. As kids, we weren’t fasting, so we were eating all the time! We’d have suhoor with everyone and then munch throughout the day on my mum’s fresh bajias.

Now that I’m nearly 45, Ramadan has become a time to reflect on my actions, how I want to live my life and how I impact other people.

Describe a typical day during Ramadan.

After suhoor, morning prayers, and a couple more hours of sleep, I get to the restaurant where a lot of people are fasting, my team included. Being a chef is maybe the toughest way to fast – you’re in the kitchen with food all around you. Not to mention, you taste anything you’re cooking.

As sunset edges closer, we prepare the iftar for the team and our guests (a lot of people fast in Dubai). I’ll break fast with my team before another busy service. Finishing late, suhoor soon approaches again.


1. Karak chai in the making

2. Naved in his most natural habitat – the kitchen

3. Bowls of silky, rich Paya

4. Chef Naved tucking into his iftar meal

5. Naved's most-cherished Hyderabadi Haleem

Describe a childhood memory around Ramadan.

I grew up in the Old Town in Bombay, right next door to a mosque. Inside, there was a huge nakara – the kind of drum they would use back in the day for really special announcements, like the arrival of a king! At iftar, the local kids would beat that nakara like crazy. I remember it so clearly – all of us frantically pushing each other out of the way to get a turn. We used to believe that it was our drumbeat that broke people’s fast every day, which felt very special indeed. I’ll cherish that memory always.

How do you harness self-reflection beyond Ramadan?

Nowadays, it’s really important for me to carry self-reflection forward, but I used to struggle with that a lot. During Ramadan you're pious, you're not doing anything you shouldn’t, the fasting helps with your self-restraint – it’s like gaining a superpower. But after Ramadan, those habits fade away.

I've learned that if you are intentional about any habit you gain during Ramadan, whether it's eating differently, consuming less or doing as much charity as possible, you can sustain it beyond the holy month. If you're not intentional, then it goes as swiftly as it comes.

What’s your favourite dish to see at your iftar table?

One dish? That’s too hard! I'll pick two. Dahi pulki is one of my favourites on the Khadak menu this year – gram flour dumplings in a spicy yogurt sauce, tempered with cumin. And Haleem – a thick, savoury porridge, made of cracked wheat, daal, meat and spices. You cook it for several hours and then pound it until smooth and comforting.

Time for a quick-fire round…

Suhoor or iftar?

Suhoor. It's hard to wake up early in the morning and have a meal, but the vibe of that meal is really special. As a child, we’d sit up many a night, waiting for suhoor.

Who are you trusting to make the chai each iftar?

Me! I'm very particular about it and will usually reject anyone else’s chai. I want it to be exactly the right balance of sweet and karak (robust). And I boil it for a considerable amount of time. Most people don't have the patience!

Who are you giving your last samosa to?

Why are you giving my last samosa away? Well, you know what? These days, my kids always grab the last one from my hand, and I happily let them.

Delight iftar tables with Chef Naved's Haleem recipe this Ramadan.

Our next Rooted in Ritual conversation is set to be a spring-filled Vaisakhi affair. Delectable traditions and reflections await.