We are thrilled to share exciting, delicious and abundant changes to our menu, awash with all-new recipes, freshly imagined classics and a sparkling drinks list. In the second part of this interview, we sink our teeth into the inspiration, regions and surprising ingredients that now shape Dishoom’s food. And underneath that, the heartfelt memories, warm nostalgia and immense pride wrapped up in it all.
THE RESEARCH TRIP
➺ Where did you find inspiration for so much newness?
We went back to India, of course. For me, it is the deepest well of inspiration. Earlier this year, Kavi, Chef Rishi and I embarked on a food research trip, first to Bombay, then Kolkata, Lucknow and Delhi, devouring each region entirely.
Over seven mad-dash days, we sampled 693 dishes! Coconut-sweet curries from the coast. Fiery Vada Pau that left us gasping yet craving more. Delicately fried fish, exciting lobster and crab. Biryanis rich enough to make us weep.
We may have returned a little heavier (chuckling), but brimming with excitement and ideas – ready to reimagine a Dishoom menu.
➺ What’s your favourite memory from the trip?
One favourite? I’ll give you two.
First, in Bombay. The thali that we ate at Shree Thaker Bhojanalay still lingers in my mind. This restaurant is a true celebration of vegetarian food, arrayed with breads, chutneys, curries, spilling with flavour and a love for what they do. If your bread is getting cold, they replenish it without even asking… it’s just amazing.
The second is in Lucknow – with aubergine. I pick this memory because I didn’t think much of aubergine until now. But this Khattey Mithe Baingan (Sweet and Sour Aubergine Curry) arrived all sticky and steaming, sweet with jaggery and tangy with tamarind. A generous pinch of Panch Poran spice blend just brought it all to life. We were all blown away. And didn’t know it at the time, but we were looking at the inspiration behind our new Warm Aubergine Chutney.
Over seven mad-dash days, we sampled 693 dishes! We may have returned a little heavier (chuckling), but brimming with excitement and ideas – ready to reimagine a Dishoom menu.
NEW INGREDIENTS / REGIONS – GOA
➺ The new menu celebrates Bombay’s rich melting pot of cuisines — are there any regions that you’ve explored more deeply this time around?
There’s a big Goan community in Bombay and many restaurants serve truly amazing fare. In our search for the best fish curry, the Goan Fish Curry at Gable’s silenced us all at the table. Coconutty sweet, tangy while deeply fragrant with spice and curry leaves… we scribbled pages of notes. Back home, we sketched recipes, tasted, tweaked and perfected – until we had something we were truly proud of. The new Goan Monkfish Curry is sublime.
➺ Are there any lesser-known ingredients that you’ve spotlighted in this menu?
We’re back to Goa here with Toddy Vinegar, a Goan speciality made from coconut sap. It brings a zing to dishes like no other (truly). We first took note of it at Gable’s as we were tasting our way through the classics: Chicken Xacuti, Sorpotel, Squid Recheado (now the Prawn Recheado at Dishoom Permit Room) – it was like eating magic. Fresh and feisty with so much flavour. And extremely well-balanced. That’s down to the Toddy Vinegar.
So we bottled it up and brought it home, ready for new beginnings at Dishoom, where we use it not in a curry but to dress our Fancy House Salad. Here we reduce it down with sugar and salt until luscious and balsamic-like. This dish dances in your mouth.
Back home, we sketched recipes, tasted, tweaked and perfected – until we had something we were truly proud of.
DISHES
➺ How is Up-to-date Pau Bhaji up-dated?
I’ve eaten Pau Bhaji my entire life. For me, it is at the heart of Bombay comfort food – anyone can enjoy it, anytime. The last Pau Baji I ate was at Sardar Pau Bhaji and it was nicer than any I had eaten before – more bite, ginger-garlic freshness and smoky-roasted vegetables. This is how we’ve up-dated our Up-to-date Pau Bhaji.
➺ The Makhmali Paneer leads with “Such simplicity.” This isn’t something that we’ve seen before at Dishoom. Why simplicity?
This is credit to our paneer. Our supplier provides fresh, high-quality, creamy-amazing paneer. We saw no better ingredient to showcase in its true form. Our Makhmali Paneer has a very mild marination, charred gently over charcoal, and finished with a kiss of Punjabi Masala. The result is amazing – a little smoke, a zing of spice, enveloped in soft, velvety pillows of paneer. The simplicity is the best thing about this dish.
➺ The Tandoori Chaat says: “Ignite your senses!” Tell me about the spark behind this dish.
Each of the 29 states that make up India has their own chaat (and every chaat-walla inside that has their own version too!). Originally a gift from the North, chaat has found a beloved home in Bombay, and has a special place in my memories too.
The Sweet Potato Chaat that we tried on the research trip took me back to my Aunty cooking sweet potato in her clay chulha. Charred smoky-sweet, we’d scoop the flesh straight out of the oven and spread a little ghee on top. It was piping hot and would singe my mouth, but it was such golden goodness. At Dishoom, we add pineapple and padron peppers to the mix. It really does ignite your senses – fiery hot, tangy, sweet – a real spark to our new menu. And a bite of nostalgia for me.
NEW MENU OVERVIEW
➺ What are you most proud of with this new menu?
For a Chef, the proudest moment is when a guest enjoys the food that you put on their plate. I was very nervous to present this menu – the product of months of hard work (and a lot of eating!). How might people react? Not only to the new flavours, but to the idea of newness itself!
Changing our menu is never easy. It has always been so full of what we might call classical Bombay comfort food, that adjusting things invariably comes with the risk of upsetting guests who have grown attached to things just as they are.
Happily, since the menu went live, we’ve had nothing but love and joy from our guests. I’m so proud to be sharing it with everyone and hope we continue to delight.
I was very nervous to present this menu – the product of months of hard work (and a lot of eating!). How might people react? Not only to the new flavours, but to the idea of newness itself!
We are thrilled to announce exciting, delicious and abundant changes to Dishoom’s menu – now live in every café. Featuring all-new dishes, freshly imagined classics and a sparkling new drinks list (all of which, admittedly, we are incredibly proud of).
The story continues
