Haleem

A firm Eid favourite, Chef Naved’s Haleem has made a number of appearances on the Dishoom menu over the years, and we are delighted to share Chef’s much-cherished recipe. This does require some skill and acquiring the requisite ingredients may require some patience. We sincerely hope that Chef Naved’s words on why Haleem has found a home on his Eid table might provide some small entertainment whilst you wait.

“I love to truly understand and appreciate the origins of a dish, and learn how communities have adapted a recipe overtime to make that dish unique to them.

I believe Haleem is so special because it has been around for so long, though its exact heritage is uncertain. It’s believed that this was originally an Arabic delicacy and was served for centuries in the royal palaces of Saudi Arabia. The story goes that it was first introduced to the Hyderabadi State in India by the Nizam rulers. They were known for eating a variety of rich foods, as their cooks used to prepare a variety of aromatic delicacies such as biryani, kababs and of course, haleem. It then slowly gained in popularity among the Hyderabadi community."

Even today Hyderabad is famous for selling its ‘Hyderabadi Haleem’ – which has recognised geographical indication status – at places such as Pista House. They’re known for exporting internationally to places such as Dubai, and it’s not uncommon for Bollywood types to place an order when the craving hits them.

It consists of lamb, lentils and wheat, but it differs in texture because you notice the visibility of each grain. The lamb was so succulent… it’s funny how the first taste of something can become a lasting memory.

I learnt to make this dish while working with the esteemed chef Imtiaz Quershi in Bombay. Chef Imtiaz was awarded one of the highest honours in India, the Padma Shri, for his contribution to the culinary arts. My time with him was much cherished, and it was him who introduced me to making Haleem with milk, which is a different version to the traditional preparation. The dish we serve in the cafés on special occasions, and which is found in our cookery book, is inspired by Chef Quershi to whom I owe a great deal.

The cooking process of Haleem is lengthy – some practice and patience will be required for this recipe, but it will be richly rewarded. The required ingredients list is lengthy, try to source as much as you can online, but don’t worry if you’re unable to find the more obscure ingredients, such as betal flower root and black stone flower – your Haleem will be perfectly nice without.

Haleem is most special to me as a dish that brings people together – it’s commonly eaten at wedding celebrations, events and religious occasions such as Ramadan and Eid. You may have heard of Ashura, the tenth day of Muharram in the Islamic calendar – it commemorates the death of the grandson of Prophet Mohammad. To mark this occasion, in Mumbra, Dhongri and Mughal Masgid in Bombay, Haleem is cooked in large copper vessels on the roadsides and handed to everyone after the processions. It’s a simple gesture, but it creates a lovely spirit amongst the whole community.

At Dishoom, we want to continue this tradition of sharing the joy of Haleem. It has many rich, energising and nutritious ingredients, but it’s the love and care put into the making of the dish which creates the true flavour. We strongly believe in the power of food to bring people together, even when we are apart. In our cafés I’m always glad to see our guests – Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Parsis alike – enjoying this dish as it truly deserves to be enjoyed. I hope this year you will try Haleem at home, and share in the heritage of this most-loved dish.”