Kavi Thakrar's Guide to 24 Hours in Bombay

Catch sunrise at Sassoon Docks, Bombay’s raucous fish market.

Early start and easy amble down Colaba Causeway to Sassoon Docks – South Bombay’s main fish market. It’s heaving with activity. The fishermen go out on the boats and the women in the family then sell the catch. Whatever you imagine swimming in the sea is sold here, in abundance. A lot of it then ends up on your plate in the restaurants later that day. Quick caution: don’t get in anyone’s way, and wear some shoes that won’t mind the dirt!

**Chef Rishi spent twenty minutes outside the market, haggling with a sandal-walla over the perfect pair of sandals before finally heading in!**

The best Keema Per Eedu

Now, back along Colaba Causeway to Olympia Café for breakfast. It’s always full of locals, the service is quick and warm, and the food is reliably delicious. Order the Keema Per Eedu (mince mutton with a fried egg on top) – this may be the best keema (and breakfast) in Bombay, the addition of dill really lifts it. A lovely quirk of Olympia is that it seems to contrast with the energy outside: when Bombay is sleepy in the mornings, the café is alive; when Bombay is heaving, it is a quiet refuge.

Inspired by Olympia’s Keema Per Eedu, our New Keema Pau on the all-day menu is now perked up – distinguished with subtle dill and warming lindi pepper. Essential eating.

Giant, crackled, puffy puris.

This eatery is an all-day gem. It started as a humble stall, serving five types of perfectly puffed puris – likely a nod to its founder, Pancham, whose name means “five” – along with two choices of vegetable. Grab a small table in the back and order the Chole Puri. This is Chef Arun’s favourite breakfast, and if you ask him, it’s why Chole Puri Halwa now sits companionably on our breakfast menu. The puris are perfection – giant, crackled, puffy, and golden. Expect messy hands, big smiles, and pure joy.

Chole Puri Halwa – a very desi breakfast, newly on the breakfast menu. Chef’s favourite breakfast: chole (chickpeas), halwa (sweet semolina), pickles (which are pickles) and one giant, crackled, puffy puri. For proper desi vibes and nostalgia, pair with hot chai.

Take in some local art

“It’s hard to pick a favourite gallery. That said, I like visiting TARQ, near the Gateway of India. Going there is a different experience altogether – you enter Dhanraj Mahal, which is this beautiful building with gorgeous plants and massive trees and is truly something else. Time slows down when you visit the gallery and that’s why I love it. And of course, there are always lots of cats outside the gallery which is a big draw for me.”

Stop for a bottomless thali.

This is another great place for lunch. It serves a perfect version of a thali. The menu changes according to what is most delicious at the time: seasonal pickles, chutneys. The waiters are shoeless and refill your plate until you are forced to admit “no more”! You will leave very happy and full.

For something familiar yet different.

The Fruit Cream from Haji Ali Juice Centre is both delicious and bizarre. Inside a massive bowl of sweet, thickened cream are seasonal fruits and things like Kit Kats or Ferrero Rocher! When mango season is over you might find mulberries or custard apple – seasonality really drives it. Imagine the most indulgent version of strawberries and cream. It just makes me smile.

The perfect bite.

My single best bite in Bombay (and that’s big statement!) has to be the Vada Pau from Ashok Vada Pau in Dadar. It’s just delicious: spicy, fried potato patty, fresh from the fryer, served in a bun – it makes my mouth water just thinking about it. Often when I land in Bombay I go straight here and order two (honestly, sometimes three!). The quality of his masala and chutneys is outstanding.

Manic but magic.

Mohammed Ali Road is a true Bombay institution. It’s ever-crowded, full of noise, there’s the odd wandering goat and the traffic seldom eases. But you can eat some of the tastiest, most pleasurable food in Bombay here. Rich, unctuous Paya, nourishing Haleem, delicious Baida Rotis and Bombay’s best jalebis. On this occasion, head to Noor Mohammedi for their Chicken Shami Kebabs with butter naan. Without exaggeration, it’s magical. Even more so during Ramadan.

Or if feeling a little fancy…

I quite enjoy seeking a contrast to more traditional Indian food for dinner. Ekaa is a really great place, run by Chef Niyati who’s worked all over the world including Copenhagen’s Noma. She understands extraordinary technique and showcases this with seasonal ingredients in a very beautiful setting. She’s brilliant.

Finish sweetly, with ice cream.

This might just be my favourite ice cream store. It’s a family business run by Roda and Aban Irani, two lovely Parsi ladies. The Guava is my favourite flavour, sprinkled with chilli and salt, then slabbed between two wafers. As you bite into it, it hits all the senses – crispy, tangy, salty, sweet – it's just mind blowing.

Tributary ice cream sandwiches, with assorted flavours (Mango Dream, anyone?), can be found in Permit Room Brighton. Come for cocktails, stay for sweet-sweet things.

Then wash it down with high spirits…

The Permit Rooms of Bombay are a great place to grab a drink – either hop from place to place or settle in for the night. I always love going to Sunlight in Dhobi Talao, you’re really well looked after and the Chicken Lollipops are perfect with a cold beer. In 1969, the ‘Bombay Prohibition Act’ was passed and has never been repealed (although now it is almost never enforced.) So in theory, you still need a medical permit to consume alcohol at these bars; hence “Permit Rooms”.

Having spent many merry times in permit rooms on our travels in Bombay, we felt it was time to put those late nights to good use. Raise a glass then feast with friends at Dishoom Permit Room: an all-day bar-café in Brighton, Cambridge and Oxford.