Manuja Waldia's Guide to 24 Hours in Goa

Start your day at this 100-year-old café.

In the heart of the capital Panaji sits Café Tato, one of the area’s oldest joints, well-known for serving a starting-the-day-right breakfast (and other snacks). The staff are delightful, the prices unbelievable, and the food truly traditional. My go-to order: sweet Goan bon (like a bun), Alsande Tonak (black eyed peas curry), Ros Omelette (Ros = gravy in Konkani) and a cup of hot-sweet masala chai.

Make a stop for all things sweet…

My friend Aashna runs Maybae’s Bakehouse – a micro-bakery in Mapusa. On the (takeaway-only) menu you’ll find breads, cakes, blondies and other bakes. And come Christmas, on the shelves you shall find not an elf, but rows of Bolo Rei – the traditional Portuguese fruitcake. If you’re in Goa, go try.

A bit of art, a lot of coffee.

Dust the bon crumbs off and slowly make your way to the town of Colvale in North Goa, where you’ll find Our Coven of Culture taking up space in a Goan heritage home. A culture library and art atelier with viewing-listening-reading rooms, walls overflowing with art, and seven extraordinary (coffee) beans on showcase everyday. Stop here for your first cup of the day – a zine alongside, to accompany every sip.

A coastal lunch-time delight.

Every village has at least one awesome tavern. From all the lovely ones I’ve been to over my years of living in Goa, my favourite is Odies Restaurant in Guirim. Expect the most delicious, local, home-style cooking. Always on my bill are the Rawa-fried Fish thali and the Recheado Prawns. While the interiors might be simple, the flavours are anything but. Top tip: Eat with your hands for extra flavour.

Frolics and relics.

I’m wholly aware that Old Goa is more a city than a specific place, but, please go (or rather come there) with me. I love visiting this part of Goa for its wonderful museums and relics of Goan Art History. When I’m in need of a little inspiration, or sometimes even a hideaway from the summer sun, you’ll find me wandering through the Archaeological Museum of Goa and the Museum of Christian Art. And not too far from here is the Houses of Goa Museum which is another delight!

Watch the sun set over the horizon.

You can’t come to Goa and not dip your toes into the warm waters of the Arabian Sea as the sun sets. Goan beaches are all unique in their own vibe. My two favourites sit on opposite ends of the state. The first, Candolim near Aguada Fort (a 17th-century, Portuguese-era fort with panoramic views) in the north. Then, the serene fishing beach of Benaulim in the south – think palm trees, soft sand, blue waters.

A plateful of traditional Goan charm.

Fill your belly, loosen your belt, warm your soul at Kokni Kanteen – another traditional Goan food gem in Panaji. Since 1972 they’ve been serving homely Konkani curries, thalis, drinks and desserts, alongside a heart-warming accompaniment of that friendly Goan charm. If you’re new to Konkani food, be sure to try the Solkadhi from their menu. It’s a drink-style curry that’s rich with coconut, kokum and spices – goes well with rice.

… and some things baked.

In Sangolda lies an old Goan house. And, within the walls of this house is Bombay-born, Goa-based Aaron Savio D’Souza’s Breaking Bread with Aaron. A lovely little bakery with a selection of sweet and savoury bakes – breads, mushroom baskets, eclairs, Japanese cheesecakes, chocolate tarts, multigrain boules, and more. What I really like is how Aaron still sticks to the traditional methods of baking (he uses Toddy instead of yeast!). If you do stop by, say hi to Aaron.

Stay in a mansion older than the Taj Mahal.

When you’re in Goa next, might I suggest booking a stay at the Figueredo House in the wee village of Loutolim. It’s nestled not on the beach, but instead by Goa’s ever-charming backwaters, with a back-drop of palm trees and paddy fields and a back-story filled with history. It was first occupied in 1590, and today, runs as a museum and homestay run by Fatima Figueiredo (the sole surviving descendant) and her son, Pedro. Beautiful high ceilings, 200-year-old Italian floor tiles, traditional furniture from around the world, and the plunge-worthy pool will make you want to stay a while.