Thursday 12th April – 1973, BOMBAY. It is almost light outside. It must be about six. He’s been awake half the night trying to figure out what to do. Lying on his bed, he stares through the rotating blades of the ceiling fan which only serve to stir the close warm air of his room. He needs to think – he’s running out of time. But his eyes feel salted and his head throbs.
Founding myths
The Dishoom Canary Wharf story
In which the canny and ambitious son of a humble Irani café owner ends up in way over his head...
10 min read
He gets up and his legs are shaky. He’s panicking. He can’t fix what he’s done. He’s tried to reason it all in his head, to tell himself that there was no other way, that either all was lost, or he had to try to do something. But he knows he did the wrong thing. He was so so embarrassed – his shame was so deep and his pain was so great that he couldn’t face anyone. He certainly couldn’t face the truth. And now when he faces the mirror, he doesn’t recognise the man looking back at him.
A chill black dread is compressing his heart and is making it hard for him to breathe. It’s surely only a matter of time before everyone finds out. His life will be over – worthless. And his mother, what will she think? He has to tell her, before it’s too late, but a wave of fear washes over him. He should have stopped at the first whiff of trouble. After all, he’s not a criminal. He just got in over his head and now he needs a solution. He needs to finish it.
The phone rings. And rings and rings and rings.
36 hours earlier.
Invitations were for eight but no one arrived before ten. There are handshakes and air kisses, musky perfume, laughing and singing, platters of delicious food. Glittering, rising film stars call each other darling and sway in silk and chiffon to the music; business barons cheerfully argue amongst themselves; local gangsters chat with tainted police detectives while socialites with butterfly eyes work the room.
The party is in full swing and in the middle of it all, is Nauzer. He can’t quite believe it. His café is the talk of the town, full of bonhomie and a dazzling mix of talent, ambition, money, beauty brought together by business deals, clean and shady. He looks around and feels content, complete, happily intoxicated on a faint but very pleasant feeling of belonging.
He spots Prashad, who raises a glass and nods to him across the room. Nauzer gives an acknowledging smile. He still feels nervous whenever their paths cross – which is more and more these days. Sometimes he wonders whether he should ever have gotten involved with someone like him… but he couldn’t ignore the potential profits. He lets the thought drift away on a coil of cigarette smoke.
Sometimes he wonders whether he should ever have gotten involved with someone like him… but he couldn’t ignore the potential profits.
After a while, he opened an account with a jobber-turned-broker and made his first winning investment with a tip he had overheard in the café. It wasn’t a huge fortune, low-risk low-return, but to Nauzer it was everything. He had tasted success. He hatched grand plans to do-up the café – make it the swishest in town, modern and different. At once embodying his father’s spirit while becoming a hub for glamorous and moneyed people. But above all - his Ami would want for nothing.
A couple of years on and stories of Nauzer’s financial acumen had spread amongst his community and he had fashioned an image for himself as the bachelor stockbroker of the Bombay Stock Exchange. So much so that Aunties and Uncles were pressing their money on him and begging him to invest it in whichever “such-and-such shares” and “so-and-so stocks” on their behalf. Life savings were given over, safe in the knowledge that in Nauzer’s care retirement would be easier. Nauzer was his parents’ son and he was meticulous, driven and charming – someone to trust.
“Get your head out of the clouds beta” his mother stirs him. He looks above her head at the photograph of his father. He smiles, inwardly thinking about how proud his father would be of him, surely. Seemingly impossible dreams were coming true with hard work and determination – virtues he’d learnt from his father. He has refreshed the café with exquisitely made modern-style furniture and his newfound taste in art; he has enriched the community with his investing skills; and the moneyed crowd have started to welcome him into their folds. Right then, in that very moment, Nauzer felt life was good.
He smiles, inwardly thinking about how proud his father would be of him, surely.
Whisky and cigarettes, late evening turns to night. Glancing at his Rado, two in the morning, he decides to walk home smiling, drunk. In his heady state, the dance of streetlights makes the city seem to glitter. “Everything will be fine”. He bites down on his own lie.
The following morning, Nauzer is lying in bed feeling jaded, heavy and hazy. He rubs his face, eases out of bed, stretches and walks to the window to open the wooden slatted blinds. The room fills with light and he takes in the mess of clothes amidst the ornate cut-glass vases and beautiful rosewood furniture. Turning on his transistor radio, the All India news bulletin blares out.
“Chai, extra hot,” ordered the man decisively and he waved Nauzer away. Retreating to the kitchen, Nauzer assumed this was one of the new generation of business barons – quick, decisive, professional – bent on expansion and achievement. Nauzer watched him and saw satisfaction, contentment. He made an emphatic promise to himself – I will be a success! Shortly after, he met with a distant relative who had climbed the ranks in the Bombay Stock Exchange and who, after much pleading, employed Nauzer as a clerk. From then on in the mornings he’d be in the exchange, diligently recording trades in musty old ledgers, before returning to the café to help his mother in the afternoon-evenings.
Meanwhile, Devia Patel of the Free Press Journal is making her way steadily towards him. A respected journalist, she has exposed scams and swindlers in the Bombay financial world and now she has a new target. One of her tipsters gave her a nudge in Nauzer’s direction a few weeks ago and she has been researching his dealings since.
She arrives at the café, walks in and spots Nauzer standing near the counter. Crossing the terrazzo tiles to join him, she wastes no time… “Mr Irani, Devia Patel from the Free Journal Press. Can you spare a moment? My readers and I would love to know more about your lucrative investing strategies.”
To be continued…
The canny and ambitious Son of a humble irani café owner ends up in way over his head...
Thursday 12th April - 1973, Bombay
It is almost light outside. It must be about six. He’s been awake half the night trying to figure out what to do. |
He needs to think – he’s running out of time. But his eyes feel salted and his head throbs. |
It’s surely only a matter of time before everyone finds out. And his mother, what will she think? |
He should have stopped at the first whiff of trouble. After all, he’s not a criminal. |
The phone rings. And rings and rings and rings. |
It’s 1973. Opposite the Bombay Stock Exchange, a newly refreshed café swells with exquisitely made modern-style furniture and newly painted art. The café is the swishest in town, pinned against a backdrop of towering promise, opportunity, fortune. And loss.
Nestled in a little corner of Wood Wharf, our most fine and gorgeous Dishoom Canary Wharf brings to life the glittering-shimmering, big-business, metropolitan scene of ‘70s Bombay. Open all day, every day, serving Bombay comfort food for breakfast, lunch, dinner and evening tipples. All are welcome.
Begin your day at Dishoom with breakfast, which might be a Bacon Naan Roll or Keema Per Eedu. Then lunch deliciously on a Chicken Tikka Roll and fancy Salads, or linger with a feast. Refresh your afternoon with a drop of Chai and a small plate or two. Dine early or dine late. Or just join us for a tipple – perhaps an India Gimlet or Pink Shiso Spritz, a toast to good fortunes.
Exclusive
Canary Wharf
Specials
This is a first-rate Parsi classic, a notable example of which is served in the inimitable Britannia & Co.Tender lamb is braised in a rich and flavoursome gravy then finished with crunchy salli crisp-chips. Served with buttered Roomali Roti.
A scandalous three martini lunch. In 1959, Commander Kawas Nanavati was tried for the murder of his wife's lover in India’s most infamous court case. Sensational in nature and now in flavour — we’ve devoted three modestly-sized martinis in their name.
DRAMATIS PERSONAE
THE LOVER
A passionate mingling of Dishoom vermouth infused with a touch of ladies fingers, Fords London Dry gin and black pepper tincture (for the shots fired). Richly decorated with a green olive.
THE WIFE
Classic affair of Stranger & Sons gin and dry vermouth laced with Poire William and the much coveted Axia spirit – known for its jealousy inciting qualities. A lipstick-red roquito pepper is added for a touch of sweetness.
THE COMMANDER
Smart dry martini of Angostura Amaro liqueur, Fino Sherry and Royal Dock Navy Strength gin for the hurrahed and cuckolded Commander Nanavati. Pink hue, punctuated with a black olive.
Reservations at Canary Wharf
Dishoom is mostly a walk-in café. All are welcome, any time, no reservations needed. However, if you'd like to make a reservation, groups of any size may book during the day. After 6pm, we accept bookings for groups of six or more.
Look around. You’re currently in the middle of Bombay’s burgeoning financial scene, where admiration drips from rupee-eyes, and the fragrance of expensive cologne intermingles with rich platters of food. The air tastes of success. “Chai, extra hot,” orders the man decisively. He then pauses, admiring the walls: newly-decorated, with old art and faded pictures rubbing shoulders with new, modern styles.
Planning your visit Bombay via London
Find us
Dishoom Canary Wharf
13 Water Street
London
E14 5GX
Contact
Tel: 0207 420 9326
Opening Times
Monday—Thursday 8am to 11pm
Friday 8am to 12am
Saturday 9am to 12am
Sunday 9am to 11pm
Seasonal opening Times
Christmas Eve: Last seating at 2:30pm.
Christmas Day and Boxing Day: Closed.
27th December: Open from 9am.
New Year's Eve: Open late until 1am.
New Year's Day: Open as usual.
6th – 7th January: Closed for a knees-up with our team.
8th January: Open from 9am.
Transport
Nearest Tube Station: Canary Wharf, Jubilee Line (Montgomery Street exit)
Nearest Car Park: Canada Square Car Park (Montgomery Street entrance)
Nearest Santander Cycle Station: Upper Bank Street, Canary Wharf
Facilities
Outdoor seating (dogs allowed)
Accessibility
Wheelchair-accessible entrance
Wheelchair-accessible lift
Wheelchair-accessible seating
Step-free access to the front door
Loo on the same floor as the dining area
Disabled loo
Group bookings
We accept bookings online up to four months in advance for up to 30 guests and accept enquiries for 30+. For larger parties or for specific event requests, do get in touch with us directly to book.
Dishoom Canary Wharf
13 Water Street
London
E14 5GX
When fortunes were made and lost, swindles plotted and uncovered, and redemption sought and savoured.
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